With suppliers naming their silver glass differently, I have compiled some of the available information. I hope to update this frequently.
Hayley
Double Helix (Jed)
http://www.doublehelixglassworks.com/
See Distributors link on Double Helix website
Reducing
Aion
Elektra
Gaia
Kronos 2
Nyx
Olympia Rain (discontinued)
Psyche
Striking
Khaos
Luna 2
Terra (discontinued)
Terranova
Precision 104 (Abe)
http://www.fineartbyrocio.com/
http://www.dichroicimagery.com/
http://www.frantzartglass.com/
(Please Google search for other distributors)
Reducing
Black Pearl
Botero* / Garzoni
Chagall
daVinci 1
Frida Sunset
Hurricane Rumble
Kandinsky
Matisse
Michelangelo* / Sasha Silver
Miro Silver Emerald* / Rembrandt
Monet
Peridot
Picasso
Rocio* / Silver Mist
Silver Stone
Sissley
Unknown Artist
Waterfall
Striking
daVinci 2
Michelangelo* / Sashas Silver
Van Gogh
Other
Diamond Clear
* fineartbyrocio names
TAG 104 (Paul Trautman)
http://www.taglass.com/
See Distributors link on Tag website
Reducing
Blue Buddha / Cezanne*
Zeus
Striking
Tibet / Dali*
Dalai Lama
Black Cherry / Red Clay* / Soft Ruby** (strikes in kiln)
Other
Black Cherry* / Oxblood
Super Clear
* fineartbyrocio names
** ARB name
GTG 104 (George Tessman)
http://www.dichroicimagery.com/
http://www.howacoglasssupplycompany.com/
(Please Google search for other distributors)
Reducing
Black Nebula
Green Envy
Mountain Honey (reduce then encase with clear, not a luster)
Other
Hamon Encasement Crystal
TAG-104 (T)
ABR Imagery calls this its Elvis Soft Color Line
Dalai Lama = Dali
This is an opaque amber/purple reactive glass. It comes in a buttery tan, but once reduced and struck can produce a wide range of tones, including purples, ambers, blues etc.
Just like the classic reactive amber/purple boro, now in 104 soft glass! Melt in with a neutral flame, lightly reduce, and cool slightly. Then strike in a neutral-to-oxidizing flame for beautiful Painted Desert effects. Colors range from tans and ambers to blues and greens, and gorgeous pinks and purples. This glass also encases well, and retains a reactive effect under clear.
Tibet Dark & Tibet Light
A transparent version of Dalai Lama, this amber/purple glass strikes easily in a neutral flame, producing electric greens over black, or electric blues and purples alone. It also transmits a dark red amber once struck. Like the others, best results come from a light reduction followed by striking in a neutral to oxidizing flame.
Blue Buddha = Cezanne
This is a cobalt blue glass, transparent, that also reduces and strikes to bring up metallic effects and enhance the purple cast in the blue.
This lovely cobalt blue develops purple notes when flameworked. Lightly reduce, then strike to get electric blues on the surface which further enhance the purple cast in transmitted light. Also reduces & strikes to blue over black.
Zeus = Zeus
This is another highly reactive amber/purple glass, which comes completely clear but reduces and strikes into some amazing electric blues over dark colors like black. By itself it's a light amber.
This glass appears crystal clear in the rod, but changes dramatically when reduced, then struck. Zeus is amber by itself and over light colors. Over black it can range from an electric blue to turquoise to green. Can also be reduced further to amber brown opaques. Encases well, retains reaction under clear.
Super Clear
The holy grail of beadmakers is the perfect clear. Resists scumming and is optically superior to the Italian clears. Try ours and see why the shipping department begged Paul to batch more!
Oxblood = Black Cherry
A self-striking dark grey rod that can make at least three colors when flameworked. It oxidizes to black, reduces to a grey, and with further reduction can produce terra-cotta and brick reds. Very earthy.
Black Cherry = Red Clay = Soft Ruby
Comes transparent, but kiln-strikes into a super-dark ruby red. Don’t overwork it.
Hayley
Thank you everyone. I got a couple of PMs regarding getting colors on Khaos. This is what I wrote back - thought I would share it here in the thread for those who may be interested. (This is been posted lots before by others who have had success with striking silver glass.)
The trick to getting colors on all striking silver glass is to heat and cool and heat and cool repeatedly. The first heat must be so hot that the surface of the glass turns translucent (almost droopy) - then cool until the glow is gone (do the under the table test). Reheat starting at the tip of the flame (as not to thermal shock), then bring the bead in closer to normal range, you don't need to heat it as much the second (and subsequent) time. When you cool it again, it should be dark brown. If it's not, then you didn't heat it hot enough the first time (in this case heat it again to translucent).
If you have dark brown after the first strike. Cool and heat again and you should get dark purple, repeated cooling and heating yield blues, greens, yellows, sometimes reds and terra cotta depending on the glass.
You need to play with it - depending how much you heat and how much you cool, you will get different colors.
When I make the beads above - they are about 1 1/4" - by the time I finish shaping the beads, the ends are dark purple/blue. So I just have to play with heating the middle in order to get the colors out.
Lastly, when you get what everyone calls baby poo - you have overstruck the glass. Just start all over by super heating it again. Most striking glass are forgiving so you can start all over. Just remember to get dark brown on first strike!
Hope this helps.
Hayley